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Pauls Web Site
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Date: 1-2-2016
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Number of Hours: 3.00
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Manual Reference: NA
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Brief Description: Removing Prop Flange
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I decided that I wasn't up to the challenge of modifying the cowling to accommodate the 2” extended length prop. There were a few reasons for changing my mind:
1) I’ve heard that fitting the cowling is already a frustrating task, and I didn’t want to make it any more difficult.
2) I didn’t want to move the CG any more forward (and it would add weight)
3) I don’t have any proof that it would work any better than the standard cowling, though it seems like it would.
4) I live in Michigan, it's cold most of the time!
5) I realized that I started my tail kit over 4 years ago, and it’s time to get this plane done
So I proceeded to remove the extended prop; following the overhaul manual very carefully.
I made a cheater bar to keep the prop flange from turning while I removed the 6 cap screws. This was the most nerve wracking part of the process. If I broke one of the cap screws, the crank shaft would probably have to be removed, and possibly replaced…thousands of dollars.
To make removing the cap screw a little easier, and safer, I heated the prop hub with a heat gun until it was almost too hot to touch. Doing this softened the Loctite, and I was able to break the cap screws loose without cracking them.
Once the cap screws were removed, I found that the prop flange didn’t want to come off. It was on tight! Then I noticed that there were 3 extra holes in the flange that weren’t in the short prop flange. To my surprise my newer engine had dowl pins that the prop flange was press fit to.
I contacted Jabiru tech support and they told me to just keep tapping it with a soft hammer, and it should come off. So, with a rubber mallet and a heat gun I was able to remove the prop flange.
According to Jabiru, it will cost about the same to drill the 3 holes in the prop flange as it will to just buy a new one. So it’s time for a new prop flange!
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Homemade Cheater Bar
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Loctite 620
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Need Dowl Holes
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