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TODD'S WEB SITE
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Date: 11-1-2010
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Number of Hours: 1.00
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Manual Reference: Sec 17 - Fuel Tank
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Brief Description: Fuel tanks
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OK, it was bound to happen, but I lost all of my fuel tanks pics so due to my procrastination in updating my builder's log I don't have anything to show for it, other than completed tanks. Anyway, I contructed both tanks at the same time. Everthing went pretty much according to the plans:
- The ribs were a bear to fit. They were really tight and needed considerable effort to get them in-place. - I used the wet, fay sealing method for my ProSeal application. Basically my process was to "butter" the rib flanges with a large popcycle stick and then clecoed the ribs in place. I then set the tanks aside and let the ProSeal cure for a few days. I then removed the all the clecos, dabed, the hole with fresh ProSeal using a Q-tip and riveted the skins to the ribs and stiffeners - ProSealing ended up not being that bad, but I still manged to make a mess here and there. - Tried the "frosting bag" method, but all I prettyh mangeed to do was squeeze the frosting tip out of the bag. Switched to popcycle sticks and although more messy, they got the job done. - Accidentally cut one of my J-stiffeners too short, asked Van's and just made a small stiffener and spliced it on to the end. - Bent one of float sender arms the wrong way and had to massage it into the correct shape - After the tanks were completed, I leak tested using Van's test kit. The kit has plugs and an air valve. You install the air valve in the drain, plug the pickup, and put a balloon on the vent line. Put packing tape over the fuel cap and add air until the balloon inflates. The balloon is there to act as a pressure releif valve lest you blow the tank apart. I then washed the entire tank in soapy water looking for bubbles which would indicate a leak. There weren't any!!!
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